Many of my friends back in the States have not yet been exposed to Bulgarian Chalga music, a fusion of Bulgarian folk music, pop beats, and horrible lyrics. For a lot of my friends here in Sofia, both expat foreigners and Bulgarians, Chalga is either a guilty pleasure as a BBC journalist mentions in her online report OR strongly disliked for everything that surrounds it and its popularity. I willfully admit that I enjoy the middle-eastern melodies and rhythms for dancing, but when I go out on a weekend I definitely don’t usually suggest a Chalga Club.
Chalga music is primarily about sex & money. In this sense, its quite similar to how rap music is perceived and viewed by many in the U.S.A. Despite the over sexualization and emphasis on money people still listen to it because they like the beats in the music and honestly could give a crap about the lyrics. I know that is how the feminist in me can enjoy some types of rap music. As a foreigner I can’t really understand the lyrics of Chalga music, but I recently went out with friends to a Chalga Club in Studentski Grad (Students Town) and a friend of mine told us the words to the songs we were dancing to. This eventually lead to some hilarious moments of unstoppable laughter – like this fabulous and romantic lyric “My heart beats like a Rolex.” Below is one Chalga star, Kamelia’s concert if you want to take a listen for yourself. Unfortunately, I don’t have a translation.
Now, that being said its actually the Chalga Club scene that actually bothers me. Though it’s fairly entertaining at first for someone who is not from here, it is not an environment I would pay to go to often. Most of my friends didn’t even want to go to a Chalga club last week when I wanted to show a visiting friend what it was like. Lucky for them we couldn’t even get in, because despite how empty it was at 11pm on a Thursday night the bouncer said we could not enter unless we paid for a table. And by pay for a table I mean, pay 100 BGN ($70) for a bottle of vodka and a mixer. In Chalga clubs there is no dance floor because the entire space is filled by lounge booths and high top tables that guests must pay to sit at. For most people like myself who go to clubs to dance – this is considered absolutely ridiculous, but it does play into the concept of money and showing that you have it. The Chalga club owner wants to make as much money as possible so they fill the club with tables people need to buy and for the guys who purchase the tables its a status symbol and a way to show wealth. Its practically standard and assumed that if you go out to a Chalga club you buy a table because that’s they only way you’ll have some space to dance and for guys its more about having a seat for the view. All Chalga clubs have dancers who are paid to walk around in lingerie and basically give lap dances to male patrons, while all the female bartenders tend to get up on the bar and shake their tail-feathers.
You can see inside a Chalga Club for yourself by viewing the BBC’s report on “Bulgarian Pop Folk” (Def take the time to watch). I’m not sure why, but they never once refer to Chalga music by its actual name and insist on calling in “pop folk.” There is even an interview with one of the most famous Chalga stars, Azis, a Gypsy/Roma Transvestite. His popularity is absolutely fascinating given the Bulgarian culture’s blatant homophobia and bigoted views against the Gypsy/Roma populations in its borders. Below is a 2008 Music Video of him and fellow Chalga Pop Star Malina. Hope you’ve enjoyed having your Chalga cherry popped ;p – Leka Nosht!
So your probably wondering given then most recent posts I’ve made (no electric, no water, sickness, etc) if I’m having any fun. The answer to that question is yes, despite the many mishaps that have befallen me over the last 2 months I have found many fun things to do in Sofia since I’ve arrived.
One of which was just last night – getting to see RENT performed in Bulgarian. Lets just say it was a very interesting experience. It was a student production, put on by the local university/institute of dramatic arts. I was wondering how or if they would change the lyrics of the songs to Bulgarian, because you don’t want to mess with such an amazing show. Having seen the show 3 times on Broadway and owning the DVD of the movie I was comfortable knowing that I would understand the show completely no matter how much Bulgarian was involved. What they ended up doing was singing some of the songs in English, but with subtitles projected in Bulgarian for the audience to understand. They chose to have no scenery, but a glass type structure with metal frame and legs which was hung from the ceiling most of the time at different angles. It was used to symbolize the sky light window of the apartment, skyscraper type structures as a background for outside and also as the table for La Vie Boheme. I thought it was quite a creative approach.
Unfortunately, they also cut out several musical intros and songs including two of my favorites, “Would you light my candle” and “Jump over the Moon” and instead used dialogue in Bulgarian. Sort of how they mutilated the show when they made it into a movie – removing the music from the phone sequences and scene intros, etc. But, I am pretty sure they didn’t use the same words and took some dramatic license with the dialogues adding much much more sexuality to the characters and scenes that don’t really need it. More so they made homosexuality more of a joke using Angel more as a clown than a real person and making Maureen and Joanne’s relationship over sexualized, playing to men’s lesbian fantasies. At one point, Joanne practically was going down on Maureen on stage (with clothes on of course). And when Maureen did the “dialogue version” of “Jump over the Moon” it appeared like she was a stripper feeling herself up and about the take her clothes off.
Ironically, the one song in the entire show that is primarily about sex, it’s repercussions and loss, “Contact” was done with the entire cast in “hospital beds.” Making the message of the whole show more so about the fact that risky sexual behavior and homosexuality results in death by AIDs. They also chose to make it appear that the entire cast had AIDS, when after “La Vie Boheme” the AZT break moment between Mimi and Roger resulted in everyone pretending to take pills.
All and all I was very bothered by the dramatic license the director took which changed the message of Love, Life, and Struggle to simply, Homosexuality is a joke, everyone gets AIDS when you parade as a whore. There was no humanity shown, which is what the original show is all about. And also quite important most of the cast couldn’t sing – none of the girls hit any of the notes right . . it was actually quite painful to listen too. Only 3 cast members actually had decent voices – those who played Roger, Tom and Benny. I don’t mind if the songs are sung accented – but at least sing on key, not scream/shout the words.
It makes me miss RENT on Broadway more & more . . . So here is the Original RENT Cast Reunion at the 2008 Tonys . . .
And for your enjoyment:
Another recent night of entertainment was when I got to watch Nicky, the bartender of my favorite expat bar, The Black Dog perform with his band. He has a great voice which you can sort of hear behind the chorus of expats and Bulgarians singing along with him to “Knockin’ on Heaven’s Door” by Guns & Roses.
This is the first time I have celebrated Rosh Hashanah outside of the United States and since I only knew of one Synagogue in Sofia it only made sense for me to attend High Holy Day services there. The Sofia Synagogue is 100 years old, having been built in September of 1909 and it is the largest Sephardic Synagogue in Europe. It also hosts the largest chandelier in all of Bulgaria. I was looking forward to observing the difference between my own Ashkenazic Reform customs in comparison with Orthodox Sephardic tradition. More so I was hoping to hear some amazing acoustics in the large domed chapel.
I was told services were to begin at 10am — so I of course mistakenly set my alarm too late, leaving myself only 20 minutes to get ready and out the door. Luckily it only took me 15 minutes to walk to the Synagogue and I arrived only 5 minutes past 10 o’clock. On my way I expected to see some people walking to Synagogue or at least when I got to the main gates, but it was quite empty. As was the main chapel when I entered. In fact there was no one there. I heard voices coming from a small room and peaked in to see several men praying in what appeared to be a smaller chapel within the Synagogue. I could see the “mechitza” which is a curtain or divider that separates men & women in prayer, but I had no idea how to get to the woman’s section without walking through the men. One of the men recognized me from earlier in the week when I asked about High Holy day services and directed me to walk around outside to another door, which went through a kitchen area. Two older women pointed me towards to door into the chapel once again.
When I entered there appeared to be only 8 women, almost all of whom were in their 70s or 80s. I took a Siddur (prayer book) and sat down. Looking through the sheer curtain it appeared that there were not that many men either. I knew that the Jewish population in Bulgaria was small – but I had not expected such a small number on the High Holy days. As the service went on more people began to arrive bit by bit. Some did not even come until the very end, but the numbers were still quite small. I’m not sure why I took a Siddur since I could not follow in Hebrew fast enough and did not understand Bulgarian well enough. Instead I listened for familiar prayers and observed the people around me. I was definitely over dressed for the occasion wearing a blazer and skirt. Many of the older women wore their everyday clothes, but some younger women even had sneakers on with jeans.
When the ark was opened – the curtains were moved aside so that the women could see the Torah. At one point the Torah portions were explained in English by the Rabbi and then translated to Bulgarian – I later found out the new Rabbi is from Holland. I recognized most of the prayers/sections of the service so that was comforting – but they weren’t sung or chanted in a manner I am familiar. In the end I realized the Shofar had not been blown and I asked one woman next to me why they had not sounded it. She explained that it would be sounded tomorrow because today was Shabbat – which made perfect sense, but was not something I had even thought about.
At the end of the service they began to pass around wine and challah — and in addition they brought out Green Apple Vodka and Oozo (a Greek liquor that smells like black licorice). Is stayed away from the Oozo, but did have some Apple Vodka – which I thought was a very funny take on the idea of apples & honey for the New Year. Food was also served. All the women & men sat separately, ate apples & honey and had a lunch that included a cheese/egg dish, hard boiled egg, cucumber salad, and a pastry. I said Shana Tova to many of the elderly ladies around me and introduced myself in Bulgarian – and when I could no longer understand what they said I explained that I spoke English. One woman heard this and called me over saying that she speaks English and if I wanted to sit next to her she would be happy to keep me company. Her name was Hannah and she was extremely sweet and explained some of the conversations to me. I was also able to meet the Israel Consulate, a lovely woman who sat a few seats down from me and 2 women from Israel who were on holiday in Eastern Europe. I spoke to them for some time and they told me about their journeys to Bucharest, Romania and Varna & Nessebar in Bulgaria. We left the Synagogue together and I took them a to try banitza, which has become one of my favorite Bulgarian foods. It is a flaky filo dough type pastry found in a “U” or twisty shape made with “cerene” a Bulgarian white cheese inside it.
I was told that the Shofar would be sounded tomorrow at 5PM so I intend to be there. But, thankfully I will not need to be there at 10am again. All and all I think this was great way to begin my New Year!
Shana Tova! Wishing my family & friends a happy, healthy and sweet new year!
Never thought I’d step foot in a Starbucks while in Sofia, but here I am. It’s my only way to communicate with the outside world, since I still don’t have internet in my apartment yet. Luckily for me Starbucks offers free wifi to patrons — even though I did have to pay 2.10 Leva for a cup of tea. I’ve never been a telephone person, even before the internet became my major method of communication I would avoid using the phone if I could. I prefer face to face communication overall, but nowadays you need to utilize all three (phone, web, in-person) to organize a face-to-face meeting with existing contacts. But, there are those rare occasions when you strike up a conversation with a random person.
Today, well literally 3 minutes ago was one of these occasions. I was sitting on a Starbucks couch minding my own business when a gentleman asked me something in Bulgarian, which I didn’t quite understand. I replied that I spoke English and he asked the question again in English – which was whether or not I liked my Mac and if it had a good battery life. This one question developed into a longer conversation not only about computers. I learned that Igor was from the Ukraine, had spent some time in living in NYC’s “Alphabet City”, but now calls Sofia home and he has a computer business. I don’t recall how we got onto the topic of the Synagogue in Sofia, but I think he actually asked if I had been there yet. Keep in mind neither of us had mentioned that one of us was Jewish, but there seemed to be this unspoken understanding. It wasn’t as if either one of us was being cautious not to mention our religion, but we felt it didn’t need to be said.
I began asking if he knew about High Holy Services and he told me about a Jewish Community Center (JCC) that had a lot of young people. He also knew of a girl in her 20s who sings in a choir at the JCC and called her right away – since she would know more information then he. We spoke about the Jewish Community in Sofia and how it was primarily Sephardi having come originally from Turkey via Spain (The Inquisition). He mentioned that they were very much respected and integrated into the Bulgarian Community and none speak Yiddish (or a Sephardi version). We discussed what we both knew about the community and he gave me some basic information about when to stop by at the Synagogue and inquire about Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur Services in the next few weeks.
It was the type of conversation I had been hoping to have, since I had been planning to learn more and get involved with the Jewish Community in Sofia. It is also the type of conversation I did not expect to have randomly in a Starbucks in Sofia. I am not a deeply religious person and as it turns out neither is Igor, who is more interested in Buddhism and other Eastern Religions, but I am interested in my heritage & religious traditions that have survived thousands of years.
At the end of the conversation we exchanged contact information spoke and about getting together for coffee/tea with the girl he had called earlier. Who would have thought . . . of the only 1,000 or so Jews in Sofia I made my connection to the Jewish Community by just grabbing a tea at Starbucks.
On Saturday, I had a nice day at a beautiful monastery near Botevgrad with my Bulgarian language class. The monastery had its own livestock as well as apple, pear & plum trees, which a few of us (including myself) helped ourselves to. We also took a hike on an extremely steep dirt path up the mountain to the Monastery’s well of Holy Water. Now, I’m not completely scared of heights, I’m just scared when I think I could actually fall. So this little stroll up the mountain was semi-traumatizing, as I was wearing sandals and walking up a steep side-winding dirt path that had no major traction available to walkers. I slipped a few times, but I survived . . . well obviously.
After a full day of sightseeing I got back to Sofia with enough time to pack and call a cab to move my stuff to my new apartment. I’ve been quite fortunate, since a fellow Fulbrighter has been allowing me to stay at his apartment the past few weeks, while I have been searching for an apartment. I was excited to move to my own place, but I had gotten very comfortable where I was staying the past 2 weeks. I arrived at my new place to find that most of the kitchenware needed to be cleaned badly – I had no sponge or soap & the dishwasher directions were in Bulgarian & German only. I was told I’d have wireless internet already installed, but not only was there no wifi – there is no internet period. The new bedding I was provided with the apartment didn’t seem to even fit the bed. I was basically given what appeared to be two bed sets. The first had – one comforter, sheet & 2 pillow cases which looked like children’s bedding and felt like sandpaper (def not 100% cotton). The 2nd was a duvet cover with some odd pattern of animal print, black, red and roses with LOVE written on it and one animal print sheet, but it didn’t feel like sandpaper (Still not cotton though). So I ended up taking the comforter and stuffing it into the duvet cover took the animal print sheet and covered as much of the mattress as a could and used the sandpaper pillowcases to go with the pillows I had. I spent most of my night unpacking and throwing away the previous owners junk before I attempted to sleep in my new bed — Moving sucks!
So I was obviously not in the best of moods on Saturday evening when the weather in Sofia pulled a complete 180. I was woken up at 5am Sunday morning to loud thunder and pouring rain. This was the first drop of rain I’d seen since arriving in Bulgaria (Its been 80s/90s & sunny) and while the cool down was definitely welcome, I would have rathered it not wake me up in the early hours of the morning when I was already having a difficult first night’s sleep.
Sunday I decided to voyage out despite the weather since I needed to find some basic things for my apartment, like soap, bedding and food. So I grabbed my umbrella and explored the streets near my apartment that lead into the ideal center (downtown) of Sofia. As it turns out in Sofia nothing is open on Sundays – but I kept walking in hopes of finding what I needed. As I was walking down Alexander Don Dushkov Street a stray cat began to follow me and when I sat down to take a look at my map it jumped up walked behind me (almost making me jump) and then sat beside me and rubbed up against my hand. It continued to follow me for another 15 minutes or so until I walked into a wifi cafe. When I was ordering I noticed it sitting outside the door waiting for me, but when someone exited it got scared & ran away.
In my 2 weeks here in Sofia I’ve noticed a lot of stray cats & dogs that roam the city. Its interesting, because I grew up watching movies like “Lady & the Tramp” and playing with Pound Puppies that it just makes sense to me that they would have similar services here. But it appears that there is no public entity to look after or watch/capture strays. Most I would say are not dangerous, but there have been cases of rabies and a female jogger was attacked by a pack of stray dogs the week before I arrived. More so, I’m concerned because many of them go hungry and have no shelter.
One hour into my search for an open store it began to rain and ultimately down pour as I walked back to my apartment – it was on this walk that I noticed that every stray dog I passed looked like the saddest things I have ever seen. Drenched in the pouring rain, laying on the sidewalk staring with big dopey eyes as the cars pass by. Hopefully things will get better for us all . . .
Ciao!
P.S. Sorry this post was so depressing – I promise you my next one will be much happier or at least humorous ;p Ohhh and my apartment is actually quite nice – I’ll brag all about that to you later too
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